Our Travel Diary
To the entries of the year
2005
► Saturday, October 22, 2005
By W.B. – Actually we started already yesterday evening, on Friday, at 11:30 p.m. in Cuxhaven: The route to Cologne – about 450 km – is almost a single site. From Bremen we'll drive in «column»: Elmar Berger will join us with his girlfriend. At the main station of the cathedral city the Thalys will expect us at 7:16 a.m. We'll arrive in Paris less minutes past eleven. The last stay in the «city of lights» dates back a long time for me; it was 13 months ago. But yet we haven't gain our end: In the Thalys we enjoy first of all the service of the first class. We're invited. We get fresh coffee, breakfast, snacks.
Arrived in Paris, our first way after the hotel check-in takes us to the Tour Montparnasse – inventory from above, so to speak, if still everything is on its place. Eiffel Tower, Sacré-Cœur, Notre-Dame (really without scaffolding?). In the next days we've to discover new things for you, dear users. But be sure that we will of course not forget the savoir-vivre besides the investigations...
► Sunday, October 23, 2005
By Elmar Berger. – After the temporary drizzle of yesterday, it finally brightens up today morning – the sun, really not a guest for granted during the Parisian october! Accordingly it's time for a visit of the Îles de la Cité and Saint-Louis. We ascertain that «Berthillon» really offers the best ice cream in town. The precious taste intensity of strawberry, choco & co. is unbelievable. In the afternoon we are making tracks to the biggest cemetery of the city, the Père-Lachaise. It may seems macabre, when curios locals and tourists go for a walk between the graves. But the deads of the Père-Lachaise were – today one would call them – «VIPs» for who the point has been to see and to be seen already during their life times. Obviously they prefer to take part in the further living instead of resting in peace.
The evening is reserved for the obligatory flying visit of the Sacré-Cœur, which let me go euphocially into raptures also at the tenth Paris stay. The view from here above is overwhelming (even when the floodlights of the sights were switched off at midnight).
► Monday, October 24, 2005
By W.B. – At 2:00 p.m. «En Piste!» («Ring free!») is said at the circus Bouglione. The last one of the proud winter circuses of Paris is located in the 110, rue Amelot. The new programme is called
«Audace» and promises 180 minutes of best entertainment. Since 1999 the old, new tradition of artists, animals, attractions exists here finally again after a 20 years lasting intermission. Following a short press small-talk with Guillaume Brasseur, the show manager, and a big compliment for the well-done production.
► Tuesday, October 25, 2005
By Jan Dreyßig. – By Jan Dreyßig. – In the morning we go to climb the Eiffel Tower – for me it's by the way the first time for five years. Naturally the steel construction is omnipresent in Paris, but it didn't count to the visit programms of passed stays. The weather today is wonderful and, how we experience a little bit shocked, also many further people are on the mars field. Frankly speaking too many. Since 9:30 a.m. we stand in the visitors' queue and we can't still see the end of it. At 10:30 a.m. we reach the first floor – and the next queue. It takes already again an hour before we have a breath-taking, hurried view at Paris from the top. Hurried because we have to go down fastly in the meantime to the next date. We'll see how much hours this way will take...
In the evening we are guests of the Bastille opera.«La Bohème» is on schedule for today. We see a fantastic production with magnificent singers, musicians and impressive stage scenes. At the finale the moved lady group in the tier behind me shed tears. Could there be a nicer compliment to the choreographers and actors?
► Wednesdy, October 26, 2005
By Elmar Berger. – Short flying visit of the Louvre. Among others departements the Italy wing was rebuilt already a longer time ago and we don't want to miss the exhibition this time. The photo-taking swarm from the Far-East arouses our interest: We are under the impression that whole Japan looks for the Mona Lisa! Anytime we stop irritated showing consideration for the ladies and gentlemen on the shutter release. Probably we are in the meantime true celebreties in Asia in regards to the number of photos on which we (or parts of our bodies) are portrayed...
Yesterday evening we were fascinated by the Bastille opera, but this evening we are frustrated by«Caligula» at the Palais Garnier. It's not easy to write a slating. Each spectator can foresee how much blood and soul is involved in such a representation. We foresee it, too – but nevertheless: What we see here and today in the National Opera is disappointing. Our faces and the faces of many fellow sufferers speak volumes, even though the ballet technics were performed perfectly. It's the production that is a complete flop from our point of view.
► Thursday, October 27, 2005
By W.B. – Already at 9:30 a.m. we stand in the visitors' queue of the Musée Grévin, whose entrance rates are acceptable on the contrary to its in London and New York. The expositions here change regularly – finally also a wax figure of Louis de Funès is part of it. A new figure anno 2004, the old one has been seen only by the storemen for years.
Jan Dreyßig has visited the Parisian zoo in the Vincennes forest for the last time in 1999. Eagerly I'm waiting for the announced panda bear immediately behind the main entrance, the big wild animal department and the elephants. But there's nothing to see except monkeys, gazelles, giraffes and all sorts of small creatures; the empty enclosures are totally dilapidated. In the complete area the weeds sprout in such an unconcealed way that we scent a «scandal» because of the normal ticket prices which are not reduced. Bankruptcy? Shut-down? Actually there is outside in front of the entrance a sign with a notice in regards to the basical renovation of the zoo. – You know, who can read has a clear advantage.
Our last Parisian evening we spend at the Opéra Comique («La Veuve Joyeuse») – in the contrary to the national operas we are guests here for the very first time and at the same time really enthusiastic how amazing operettas can be.
► Friday, October 28, 2005
By Jan Dreyßig. – At lunchtime we have to say good-bye to Paris. For the time being a last walk across the Île de la Cité, a last visit at the Galeries Lafayette, a last trip with the métro, which brought us in the days passed away so reliably to all destinations. Than we go to the Gare du Nord. Our Thalys starts approximately at 4:00 p.m. The journey ends at the Mariott Hotel Am Seestern in Düsseldorf by that we're so enthusiastic that we'll return with pleasure also in the future for a stopover. Thanks for the overwhelming service! And the next Paris trip is already dated, too...
2006
► Friday, July 21, 2006
By Jan Dreyßig. – At 6:00 a.m. on the roof-deck of the Hamburg Airport it becomes apparent that this friday will surely not be one of the summer’s coolest ones. But who had thought that the thermometer would really climb onto 38° C in the afternoon in Paris?! Tropical circumstances obtain under the spotless blue sky. On the «Paris Plage» African rhythm sounds between pool and palms. But there are not so many Parisians who cavort on the reclaimed Seine beach. Primarily German tourists enjoy the sun. I hope that they don’t reserve «their» deck chairs also here with towels before the breakfast...
Many institutions prepared themselves in due for the weather. Under the Eiffel Tower big air conditioners are installed above the visitors queues and in the cafés ventilators whirl cooled air across the guests.
► Saturday, July 22, 2006
By Jan Dreyßig. – Today 34° C. Slowly the merciless heat affects our mind, too. In the meantime we deify shower and shady trees like sanctuaries of first rate. For the air-conditioned salerooms I am deeply indebted to the Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, C&A and H&M on the boulevard Haussmann. I love you! In the evening a dinner at the Greek quarter next to Saint-Michel. The roasted mushrooms are cold – in this weather the cook understands obviously the worries of his guests and prefers to do without unneeded heat sources...
► Sunday, July 23, 2006
By Jan Dreyßig. – Today 33° C. The last stage of the 93rd Tour de France runs already, when I try to struggle through to the press centre on the Champs-Élysées at 2:00 p.m. But where is it? Collective shrugging of the first, second, third, fourth policemen. And the ninth has also still no idea. Anyway he doesn’t send me to ask a further colleague but to the official tour information desk, 1’500 m in direction to the Triumphal Arch. Great – but there they can’t help me, too. Pleasantly one refers me to the policemen beneath at the Concorde, they should really be able to answer my question.
To shorten the story: A gendarme in front of the Élysées Palace (yes, that’s in the meantime exactly the other direction again) finds finally the information in his hand-out. According to this I have to change the street side. BUT: Unfortunately the avenue itself is blocked out and the next two métro stations in both directions are closed for security reasons. The Tour de France as my personal Odyssée des Champs-Élysées.
At 4:30 p.m. I almost reach my target, I can already see the trailer for the press. But I haven’t reckoned on the young lady at the VIP entrance who tells me that she isn’t authorised to let me (outwardly quite calm, inwardly close to explosion) pass through. Someone of the press office has to pick me up here. But unfortunately she hasn’t a phone number. Me not, too. And her supervisor? «No!!!» (Sorry for the question!). At 5:00 p.m. the first racers arrive the Champs-Élysées, the splendour boulvard seethes because of the heat. I seethe, too, but for other reasons. I have the feeling that I have walked today as much as the teams have driven… At 7:00 p.m. I jump at the media office (now freed of barricades) and ask the gentlemen behind the counter, if he maybe has still a press kit for me with general datas about the tour. «Yes, but now? AFTER the race?» Little joker, aren’t you?
► Monday, July 24, 2006
By Jan Dreyßig. – Today 35° C. From the benches around the Triumphal Arch one has an absolutely beautiful view on the traffic chaos on the place Charles de Gaulle. The French navigate their cars higgledy-piggledy into directions I have never heard of before. Who listens attentively will hear the marvelous whistles of the unflinching traffic policemen right in the heard of the gigantic turmoil out of trucks, cars, mopeds and buses. They pipe and gesticulate effusively and conduct one of the most spectacular motorcar concerts on Earth. Supply traffic, building sites or frivolous tourists increase the degree of difficulty. Not Napoléon’s army, no, the ladies and gentlemen of the «Circulation» are the real heros of the Étoile for me!
In the evening we drive to the Charles de Gaulle airport. Air France shall bring us back to Hamburg from their new terminal in Roissy. The emphasis is placed on «shall». Unfortunately the personal behind the desks is hopelessly overstrained by their modern technology. The luggage registration is late for 60 minutes, the boarding for 25 minutes. As the kamikaze bus driver turns us finally across the manoeuvring area to the A320, the cockpit windows of our bird were swiftly masked with silvery adhesive tapes. Shall it protect the pilots from the draught or shall it keep the airplane together? One doesn’t know why. And one doesn’t want to know why. At 7:28 p.m. AF 2510 takes off – with a delay of 53 minutes. Anyhow the catering is opulent: For dinner are served exactly 150 ml cola and 20 g cheese cracker. – Lufthansa, we’re coming!
► Saturday, November 25, 2006
Von Jan Dreyßig. – It’s lucky that the track section which the DB night train Hamburg-Paris drives on French territory is absolved anyway during the shower the breakfast time. The rails here don’t have the straightness like in Germany. I’m sure, one could have covered the way from the Belgian boarder also on a horseback – probably with the almost same sleeping comfort.
Just arrived at the Gare du Nord – the new designed forecourt finally takes shapes – we hurry to our hotel. Already at 5:00 p.m. the performance of theArlette Gruss circus will begin. And at 8:45 p.m. I’ll have a date under the big top of the Pinder-Jean Richard circus. Both are built up on the Pelouse de Reuilly in the south-east of the city. Christmas time is circus time in Paris. Eleven enterprices play here simultaneously in November/December. Two of the best ones I will see today.
► Sunday, November 26, 2006
By W.B. – As usually on Sunday mornings the streets are deserted (probably entire Paris cures its hangover). The spring-like november temperatures (?!) reach a level around 18°C. Why there are gloves, scarfs and coats in our luggage at all? But also the Parisians not seem to trust in the climatic peace: Shoes without socks and above poloshirts BUT as tribute to the winter that comes nevertheless a big cotton scarf around the stomach.
Jean Reno, french Hollywood star (another one of these paradoxons!) plays at the Édouard VII in«Les Grandes Occasions». A special performance and opportunity we don’t want to miss. The representations are sold out for weeks and a prolongation isn’t possible. In the evening we’re guests at the Opéra Comique, currently my favourite stage in Paris. After six years director Jerôme Savary says good-bye with «À la recherche de Joséphine». It will be difficult for his successor; the expectations are high. Maybe also too high.
► Monday, November 27, 2006
By Jan Dreyßig. – The RATP seems to have started a new fragrance attack in the métro. Yesterday the underground was still governed by the musty smell. Today infatuating orange and strawberry aromas wafts through the corridors. All very well. But there are stations (you know already, those of the M12 northern from the Gare du Nord) which doom even the highestly concentrated perfumes to failure: In any case we can just warn you to use a connection of peach and urine as room deodorant! Contrary to this, the permanently increasing number of homeless persons seems to become a true problem. They besiege every grated
intake air shaft in the pavements to stop freezing during the night. The clochards are the other side of the Parisian extravagancy world. Homeless are especially East-European immigrants whose integration will not succeed.
We experience the contrast programme: Champagne, charme and charivari at the big Lido.«Bonheur» the fantastic programme is called. But a bad conscience remains after the impressions of this afternoon.
► Tuesday, November 28, 2006
By W.B. – Originally it was planned already for a long time to visit the musical «Cabaret» at the Folies Bergère this evening. But one has forgotten to reserve our press tickets and the performances are completely sold ou until January. The invitation is changed for February and we have the opportunity to see«Le Roi Soleil». I have to say that it is one of the best musicals I’ve ever seen. In the meantime the production plays already the second season at the Palais des Sports and the ticket demands will simply not drop off. Quite right.
► Wednesday, November 29, 2006
By Jan Dreyßig. – Due to more than a dozen of «Roi Soleil» earcatchers the night was a little bit unquiet. But not only because of them: This morning at 1:00 a.m. I missed the last metro. A cab in the near? Far from it! Forced march from the République to the North station! In only one hour, five minutes and 43 seconds! Record-breaking! Unfortunately noone was interested in my athletic and brilliant achievement: The enthousiastic crowds at the arrival turn out small. But I’m sure that the day time was the only reason for this disappointing popularity!
In the afternoon we have the chance to see the latest programme«Artistes» at the Cirque d'Hiver. Clown Fumagalli participates; I know him already from his days at the German Roncalli circus. The building of the 19th century is wraped up with scaffoldings. Obviously he gets finally also at the outside the make-up which has realized already inside a beautiful atmosphere. The evening belongs to the classic music: The Wiener Philharmoniker (the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra) at the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées. By the way I experience an episode of French hospitality: A bickering usherette (you know surely, that everyone recognizes usherettes in Paris by there always open hand!) abuses an irritated visitor from Austria. And this poor tourist has IN FACT forgotten the tip! Quel grand malheur! The Austrian can be happy that the lady had no scaffold available…
► Thursday, November 30, 2006
By W.B. – The free day in Paris! I spend it with squeezing myself through the shopping people(s!) in the Grands Magasins: Lafayette and Printemps are bursting with overcrowding (the Samaritaine is still closed because of its renovation). During a short Cityrama sightseeing tour I let pass the stay in review and ask myself, why of all people the Parisians have such an intensive tendency towards American christmas kitsch: The lighter, more colourful and louder the better! For the last two hours we come together briefly in our favourite café to arrange the coming dates for February. In THIS way a Paris stay has to end – with the plannings fort the next one...
2007
► Wednesday, February 21, 2007
By Barbara Walther. – Some minutes after nine a.m. and we stand on platform 8 at the Gare du Nord – the night train of the Deutschen Bahn arrived exactly on schedule. For time reasons W.B. and Jan Dreyßig flew today morning with Air France from Bremen but now they wait for us already in the hotel. A fast café crème «à emporter». A cab will bring us (and the heavy luggage!) to the Résidence du Pré where we discuss together the last details for the coming days in Paris.
Five hours later, at 2:00 p.m., we have a date at the other end of the city: In the south-west. Over there in the Boulogne forest the French national circus of Alexis Gruss is installed. Also«Allegro Sportissimo», the title of the programme 2007, concentrates on various horse acts.
► Thursday, February 22, 2007
By Jan Dreyßig. – The decision to enjoy the all-you-can-eat buffet of an American pizza chain has a little bit of masochism. We know that we eat really ALWAYS too much, but, you know, not everyone learns something out of his mistakes. And so we are sitting today again wailingly and plaintively in the restaurant and try to stand up without exploding. No matter what happens: The Swedish around the table behind us are as intelligent as we have been and a problem shared is a problem halved!
Our weight seems to have reached the glorious level of a 7.5 ton lorry when we leave the hotel to visit«Cabaret» at 7:30 p.m. at the Folies Bergère. With «Cabaret» the Parisians have discovered their faible for international musicals. Finally. The current production has been prolonged for months already for the third time and in November the next production will have its premiere at the Théâtre Mogador: «Le Roi Lion», «The Lion King». Some years ago it has been unthinkable that the U.S. company Disney produces in France. But the processing via the French quasi-subsidiary Stage Entertainment France becalms obviously also the most convinced patriot.
The end of the show, 11:00 p.m., totally emaciated onto subjective 3.5 t, hungry! Where was this sensational crêperie close to the Folies???
► Friday, February 23, 2007
By Claus Dreyßig. – A simple question, but no answer: Why do the French have still unisex toilets? Not only bars and pubs are very much interested in the uni-lav, no, even the Galeries Lafayette. Bad times for prudish foreigners. Between parking cars a similar serious problem lies in wait for thoughtless passer-bys: Dog poohs or «doggy landmines», as they are called usually. The majority of the Parisian dog population consists of specimens which are hardly taller than rats. It is connected to the small (because very expensive) apartements. There is simply not enough space for calf sizes. In the evening mostly female Parisians move their barking «goldhamsters» on short leads across the pavement. Or they carry them. One should be a big city pooch...
Jan and I drive this afternoon to a business date to Mantes-la-Ville. Mantes is an idyllic, typical French town in the west of Paris. The evening we pass in a restaurant close to the Place du Tertre on the top of the Montmartre hill. A 8:30 p.m. «Les Arts Sauts» show us their production«Ola Kala» directly beside the Alexis Gruss circus.
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Saturday, February 24, 2007
By W.B. – «Aux Champs-Élysées / Au soleil, sous la pluie / À midi ou à minuit / Il y a tout ce que vous voulez / Aux Champs-Élysées» – these words were sung in one of the most popular chansons about the Parisian glamour boulevard. And each walk between Étoile and Concorde confirms the lyrics: Really everything can be discovered on the Champs-Élysées. But don't forget – it's not so interesting to see, it is more important to be seen! Some metres before the Concorde the U.S. embassy on the left side. Since September 11th, 2001, it is supposed to be the best guarded building in France.
Planned for the afternoon was originally a visit of the Théâtre Marigny. Alain Delon plays here since the end of January. But the performance is cancelled. We will try to catch it up during our next stay. In the evening we see (and hear) Nelly Furtado within the scope of her«Get Loose» tour at the sold out and famous Olympia of Bruno Coquatrix.
► Sunday, February 25, 2007
By W.B. – Today on Sunday the pavements are much emptier than in the week. We miss the legions of smokers who are forced consume their cigarettes open-air during the lunch break. During the peak hours the addicts swash like sea waves out of the entrance doors and befog the complete environment densely. At 4:00 p.m. (as regular visitor of Paris-Tourist.com you surely suspect it) a reunion with the Opéra Comique. Jacques Offenbach's«La Périchole» is performed.
In the evening, exactly at 8:30 p.m., the Air France brings us back to Germany from the Aéroport Roissy-Charles de Gaulle. I'm really enthusiastic because it's quite stormy in the French capital. The takeoff is accordingly turbulent. It's nice that Europe grows obviously together more and more: The 1'000 km route Paris-Bremen is flyed by Air France RÉGIONAL. So well!
► Wednesday, 9, through Sunday, May 13, 2007
By Jan Dreyßig. – All fans of our travel diary we have unfortunately to avow that there will be no entries for this Paris stay for time reasons. SORRY! But here a list of the new reviews and articles (the texts follow soon):
1) Cirque du Soleil with«Alegría»,
2) Marc Jolivet in«Comic Symphonic»,
3)«Paradis d'Amour» at the Paradis Latin,
4) Alain Delon in«Sur la Route de Madison»,
5) By car across the Paris metropolis region,
6) «Canauxrama»:«On board along the old ways of the original Paris»
2008
► Thursday, June 5, 2008
By Elmar Berger. – Jan and I fly today from Cologne and Bremen to Paris – «editorial meeting», you know ;)! For the first time since 2005 we are together in France’s capital. And that’s why the local nightlife will play surely a central part during our stay.
After ten years we get in fact unfaithful to our long-time accommodation and reside for the first time at the comfortable Suitehotel Porte de Montreuil. This hotel of the Accor group is located at the périphérique – we will see in how far the larger distance to Paris downtown will be a future reason to return into the city centre. In any case an advantage is the completely air-conditioned apartment which is equipped with refrigerator, microwave, kettle. At the moment the weather is absolutely nice but who knows the development of the summer temperatures until Sunday.
At the evening we see«Forever Crazy», the latest revue of the Crazy Horse. Before the premiere last late summer the whole cabaret was renovated. A bottle of champagne is served – what a marvellous beginning. And the continuation follows after the show in the glamorous «Buddha Bar» on the Champs-Elysées. Open end included, of course.
► Friday, Juni 6, 2008
By Elmar Berger. – On Friday we make an excursion to Chantilly-Gouvieux and Senlis, two little suburbs in the North-Eastern outskirts of Paris. The beautiful landscape corresponds really to every French cliché: Lopsidedly stone houses, bumpy streets, a lot of green, a noble castle and in fact French with baguette under their arm! But there is one disadvantage: Senlis is difficult to reach by public transport. Accordingly it will appear in one of our «Car routes across the metropolis region of Paris». At least we both look forward to this circumstance – it causes our ride by our super-comfortable, rented Chrysler across the sun-pervaded Île de France. A true dream!
At 9:15 p.m. we enter the Bobin’O, the youngest cabaret of Paris. (Unfortunately a little bit late because the gentlemen are still not able to appreciate the real distance and schedules from their new hotel; note of the editorial staff) The hall is almost overcrowded with modern light machines up to the ceiling. The clou: After the show the auditorium changes into a club bar where the guests can dance into the morning. Tonight unfortunately noone uses this offer. But usually the visitors of Parisian cabarets get also immediately complimented to go after the show because the personal wants to prepare everything for the next performance.
► Saturday, June 7, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – We have some dates in several hotels and for lunch we will have buffet at «Pizza-Hut». Our regular users know already from the earlier diary entries how many worries too much good pizza can cause. And this time, too, I can confirm you: Still nothing learned and, of course, eaten too much again. Maybe, maybe next time – but we should remain realistic: Between dozens of fresh, tasty margheritas, funghis, tonnos & Co. this rationality would be extremely improbable.
Later in the afternoon we are invited to«Fame», the masterpiece which caused the musical euphoria in Europe at the beginning of the 80s. The Théâtre Comédia has invested into a great production – but according to reports the ticket sale is supposed to run also excellent. The evening is dedicated to Montmartre. In the dawn we sit in a street restaurant next to old, little houses and taste the great haute cuisine. The night will be short – Elmar wants to visit the «Scala», a long-established discotheque face à face to the Louvre. Thank God that the metro drives longer and the night buses more regular in the meantime.
► Sunday, June 8, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – (Yes, I’m still alive after the party!) Our stay is finished unusually fast – it has been the shortest travel for a long time. We have had much luck in regards to the weather – much sunshine and temperatures around 20° C. Quite right! We still have a walk across the weekend market across from our hotel. It swarms with brand products and self-burned dvds – the gendarmerie has obviously given up the fight against the plagiarism trade and play cards in the team bus.
By Air France we will start back to Germany in the late afternoon. At the airport the bus driver does not find the airplane and (as rumour has it) the pilot cruises on the wrong runway. I hope he will find at least the airstrip in Bremen.
► Friday, August 1, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – Finally back in Paris! But – the last time is just eight weeks ago and I should not dramatise this way... In June the Suitehotel has convinced us. That’s why we are driving again from Charles de Gaulle to the Porte de Montreuil and not into the ninth arrondissement which we know from passed stays.
For me as a big Louis de Funès fan today is a very special day. Even if Louis has passed away a long time ago – in 2008 he is dead for exactly 25 years – it is always a huge pleasure for me to can see one of his film partners of those days on stage. In 2004 I saw Michel Galabru alias adjutant Jérôme Gerber at the Théâtre Saint-Georges (please find the report the review archives). Today I am going to see a performance of Louis’ film wife Josépha Cruchot who is called Claude Gensac in real life and plays currently «La Perruche et le Poulet» at the Théâtre Déjazet. In the meantime the lady is a little north of eighty and the movements may no more be as easy as some years ago – her distinctive smile and her facial expression remained nevertheless the same. I would have wished her a nicer ambiance – for Parisian relations the Déjazet is a scruffy dump.
► Saturday, August 2, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – In my hometown Cuxhaven has opened a Sealife Centre some months ago. That is why we focus today on the Sealife in Paris. By our rental car we drived this morning to Marne-la-Vallée, in the direct neighbourhood of Disneyland. Here the big aquarium is integrated in a huge shopping mall in Provençal style, the «Val d’Europe». On site we order roasted duck at the «Dragon d’Europe». And because we badger the restaurant owner a little bit with his German pronounciation he demands us to eat with sticks. Great! I can tell you he has had his fun!
In the afternoon we are invited to the Théâtre Mogador. Audience with the lion king, the «Roi Lion» (review available soon). At home in Germany I would no more visit a musical because the Germany lyrics translations used to sound really terrible. But here in Paris we brim over with enthusiasm for the performance. Five Paris-Tourist.com stars for a truly breathtaking production – for the first time ever I would like to enlarge our evaluation system about a sixth one.
After the dinner we drive to the west, to Versailles. In these days the old water games of the world-famous castle run only on a few days of the year. Today they will be supported also by classic music and colourful lights. The top attraction of the«Grandes Eaux Nocturnes» will be the spectacular fireworks. The best view you have from the stairs up to the castle’s back. The atmosphere around the legendary atmosphere is quite unique.
► Sunday, August 3, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – Although we have a navigation system on board we lost completely our way in Paris downtown. In the meantime there can be no more a street in the city which I have not yet absolved at our Peugeot’s wheel. Thank God that there are no obligations today! At least we experience that Paris celebrates the current presidentship of the European Union. The photo to the left shows that even the Eiffel Tower has got a blue dress and a star necklace à l’Europe.
► Monday, August 4, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – Today is departure day. After the breakfast we pack our bags and hit the road back to the Charles de Gaulle airport. En-route we make a stop at one of the quite big tourist attractions of Paris: Ikea, the Swedish furniture shop! The restaurant cooks express their deeply felt lack of understanding with a quizzical view when we order the unavoidable Köttbullar. But in France they are called «boulettes de viande suédoise», Swedish meat balls. At least «Billy» remains Billy also in Paris.
► Wednesday, December 3, 2008
By Elmar Berger. – When a Paris trip gets heralded in a cocktail bar like yesterday evening, it is supposed to be a high proof journey. The more so when the party continues far into the night at the night train’s cabins. (Sorry, neighbours!) None the less we arrive next morning safely at the Gare du Nord. By car we drive via Périphérique to our hotel. At a snail’s pace, of course, because we get stuck between dozens of building sites in the rush-hour traffic. You know, tradition is tradition.
Just arrived in Montreuil we hurry up to get the metro to the Cirque d’Hiver who presents«Etoiles» at 2:00 p.m. Since the reopening of the circus building, the Bouglione family produces its tenth show this year. And the programme is very strong. Subsequently we hit the road to the new Charles Aznavour musical «Je m’voyais déjà». For the first time we are guests at the Théâtre du Gymnase. The inside architecture is impressive. In the meantime the old halls with their red velvet and rich Golden décor are a true epitome of Paris for us. Where else you find so many beautiful, classical stages like here?
► Thursday, December 4, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – It’s quite cold on Thursday, too. We are driven to the Val d’Europe to do shopping this time unhurriedly. (Yes, also men enjoy it as long as the women don’t take part!) We bury the «hatchet» ;) with the chef waiter of the Chinese restaurant and are allowed to eat with fork and knife in return. From 1:00 p.m. we are on our way back to Paris again.
Two hours later the Arlette Gruss circus expects us with its show«Mirages». In Paris the white big top has been built up for the last time. From January the enterprise is going to travel with a brand new tent. After a dove hit yesterday the bull’s eye (= me!) with its munitions, I hit in return a dog pooh this morning. And during the show my «luck» goes on. Obviously an elephant has just waited to stand right in front of me to take a biobreak. Inauspiciously the pachyderm turns around in waltz time – the centrifugal forces complicate the flight path’s calculation. Thank God – the huge load lands 50 cm away from my feet. – Actually I still have to win at the lottery this week.
► Friday, December 5, 2008
By Elmar Berger. – This morning we visit the Parisian boat expo «Nautic» on the fairground Porte de Versailles. The yachts look extremely great – but unfortunately they are unaffordable, too. Anyway, we have our rented Passat CC at the car park next door. I only say leather seats and tinted windows. Also quite nice! :) The trip to the little suburb Chatou gets a farce. We would like to have a walk along the Seine riverside and eat something at a brasserie on site. But the after-work traffic clutches us practically. For the little distance of 19 km we need more than 80 minutes – that corresponds to an overwhelming average speed of 14 km/h.
Finally arrived at Chatou, there’s time only for some sandwiches from the supermarket. ThePinder circus invited us to the evening performance. Great – we are in the West of Paris, Pinder is built up in the East. Against our own expectations we really make it in time – but don’t ask me how…
► Saturday, December 6, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – On Saint Nicholas Day we start where we stopped yesterday. For the third and last time we drive to the Pelouse de Reuilly which we find by now smoothly also without navigation system. After Arlette Gruss on Thursday and Pinder yesterday we have the third circus on the programme today: Phénix with its show«Extra – les Etoiles des Cirques du Monde». Cathérine Legrand, the charming press attachée, makes the spontaneous visit possible – thanks a lot for the support once again. Unfortunately we have to leave the big top already during the final; we have to arrive in time at the Disney Village in Chessy.
«The year is 2008 A.C. Gaul is entirely occupied by the French. Well not entirely! One small village of indomitable Americans still holds out against the invaders.» – No, don’t worry, the differences in and around Disneyland are not that kind grossly. But however it’s obviously that two (culture) dimensions collide here a little bit. Since 1992 the dinner show«Buffalo Bill’s Wild West» runs at the Disney Village. Instead of delicate haute-cuisine the adventuresome audience eats chilli con carne, chicken, spare rips and potatoes from metal dishes. Proper style it has to be!
► Sunday, December 7, 2008
By Elmar Berger. – This morning work is to be expected. We plan future projects in Paris and recompense ourselves with tickets for «Elle t’attend» at the Théâtre de la Madeleine. Why this shall basically be a recompense? Well, supermodel Laetitia Casta plays the star role. Originally the piece should be played until 12/31 but the dernière is already next Sunday. The staging really convinces and the whole ensemble performs a great service in a simple but effective stage design.
Let’s face it: This morning we have overslept and now we have to pay the price. Instead of using the metro we take the car to drive downtown. That’s much faster on Sunday mornings with less traffic. But now in the afternoon, on the way from the Place de la Madeleine to the Théâtre Comédia, the car is a millstone around our neck. The car park charge reaches a horrendous amount – that’s why we want to change. It’s a distance of 2’000 m only but the boulevard des Italiens is overcrowded. Just in time we reach the Comédia on abstruse loop ways to see «Grease» (review follows soon). It’s already the last event of our current Paris trip. Sad.
► Monday, December 8, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – Always the same on departure days: Already prepared for leaving the city, but still a whole day before the return journey really begins – our night train starts at 9:00 p.m. At Carrefour we stock up on provisions and drive occasionally to Sucy-en-Brie. Lunch we have – in the meantime traditionally – at Ikea. The store in Villiers-sur-Marne is not as nice as the Northern one in Roissy. But a Mediterranean shopping mall is currently under construction in the neighbourhood. During our next stay we will check it for you…
2009
► Friday, March 6, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – The journey to Paris doesn’t turn out the way we expected. At the Belgian Leuven the Thalys drops out and a replacement train, a French TGV, is available not before Brussels. In-between we use a Belgian InterCity (IC). On board the Thalys we had WiFi but no power socket. Now the TGV offers electricity but no internet. Crazy world – the IC however had nothing of both.
At least the weather gets better kilometer by kilometer. We left Cologne in a winter drizzle. The Gare du Nord we reach at 3:00 a.m. and are surprised by spring-like 14 °C and clearest sunshine. The one hour delay and further lags put our crammed schedule in a flurry. Unfortunately the free evening does not recompense us, too. As guests of the «Hippopotamus» steakhouse in Saint-Malgré (by the way for the first and last time ever) we meet two overpriced and by tendons and cartilages furrowed cutlets the chef de cuisine has tried to disguise as steaks. Sit down – failed!
Saturday, March 7, 2009
Von Jan Dreyßig. – No idea when I have seen Paris the last time in such a brillant weather. The dusk (observable directly from the hotel room) makes amends for the much stress of yesterday. While we still yearn for spring in North-Germany, it reached the heart of France some weeks ago. Although the trees are still naked, the Parisians have already put their winter clothing in mothballs.
Our first drive this morning leads us to the Parisian East. In time at 3:00 a.m. we arrive at the Palais des Sports in the West. After «Le Roi Soleil» (s.review archives) also Kamel Ouali’s second musical, «Cléopâtre», celebrated right here big successes. Of course, the afternoon performance is completely sold out for weeks. Some minutes later we know why: The production has a quality that really noone should wonder about its popularity. In the evening we visit the «American Dream», a kitschy, trendy US scene bar close to Palais Garnier. The style mix of the piano man is dispiteous – € 12,00 for a 0.5 l beer, too. So, no chance to anaesthetise the ears. Thanks a bomb, guys!
Sunday, March 8, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – The sunday is a little bit hectic. The – in the truest sense of the word – «bonbon» of the day we get certainly right now at the Porte de Versailles. The «Intersuc» is the leading tradeshow of French bakers, confectioners and ice-cream sellers. A unique calory puddle waits for the visitors who noshes through a complete exhibition hall of gateau and cake samples, whole landscapes of chocolate candies and huge tubs of ice cream. I think lunch will be canceled today... Later we visit quickly the exposition «Our Body – à corps ouvert». It is a Chinese pendant to the contended «Körperwelten» («body worlds») of the also not less contended German Gunther von Hagen. But «Our Body – à corps ouvert» has not the dimension and quality to hold a candle to it.
Since the end of January and through the end of March a surprisingly permissive adaption of the musical«Hair» runs at the Théâtre le Trianon, not far away from the Pigalle. Big grinning we see many children in the audience – we are afraid that mummies and daddies will be faced with a lot of inconvenient questions. The musical itself benefits from the happy staff which radiates much power.
After «Hair» we have a walk onto the Montmartre hill which is beseted by legions of tourists enjoying the nice temperatures. The evening we pass at a little, wonderful restaurant close to the Place du Tertre. On the outside terrace, of course...
Monday, March 9, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – On the last day the sun shows once again what it is able to do. But there is not yet true power in it. Nevertheless everybody luxuriates at the cafés’ outside terraces and lusts for every sunbeam.
The Thalys back to Cologne starts at five to one. A crazy clown on platform 7 pilots the passengers into the railway cars whose equipment is old. But at least the service is perfect. The staff is very kind, the meal extravagant and tasty. The four hours spin away – and not only because we travel with a speed of 300 km/h!
► Friday, December 4, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – The car ride from Bremen to Paris – today since 7:30 a.m. we try it for the first time – we have imagined as endless long. But apart from much traffic on the A1 during the rush-hour we get along and enjoy a longer stay in Cologne (excellent meals you find at Brauhaus Peter close to the Alter Markt). The motorway across Belgium is in a disastrous condition. But in France it gets finally better. In return its use costs: 13,00 Euro – still quite acceptable. The motorways around Paris are managed by the state and always free.
In the evening the twelve hours lasting journey is still troubling us. After a sandwich we decide to relax and to save ourselves for the coming days. Tomorro we will visit the first events. But the frosty, wet weather we left successfully at home. In Paris the night sky is clear at comfortable 8 °C.
► Saturday, December 5, 2009
By Elmar Berger. – Just six months ago I was the last time in Paris as a private person. For Jan it is the 21st stay in town. That’s why for the both of us this coming back is a little bit like coming home, too.
This morning the car is left at the hotel; we prefer the métro. The whole city is overcrowded by hectic christmas shoppers and today, on the second Saturday in Advent, like hell we will make a parking lot expedition through the subterranean garages downtown. This afternoon the Théâtre Silvia Monfort provides«Slava’s Snowshow» from Russia. It is a big pleasure to see children as well as adults playing around with white scraps of paper. Welcome to the Waldorf kindergarten. And at the end of the show we have inhaled so much dry fog that a joint’a effect may be surpassed by far. PEACE!
Never before we had to rearrange our dates as often as this time to be able to see the chosen productions. Because of TV promotions and galas many representations were cancelled and have to be visited by us earlier or later than planned. And even when it is not television its a desease: The Mando Diao concert actually announced for this evening at the little Bataclan at boulevard Voltaire drops out for health reasons – like the whole South Europe tour of the Swedish. Instead of «svenska smörebröd» we enjoy «American burgers» at the Hard Rock Café next to the Grands Boulevards.
► Sunday, December 6, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – ...and believe me, you won’t know where I have found this morning the last pieces of Slava’s darned snowflakes!
We have 16 °C! Today is doubtlessly our most stressfull day in Paris; from early in the morning until late in the night it goes choop-choop. During the forenoon we are accredited at the sailing («Nautic») and swimming pool fairs («Salon de la Piscine») at the Porte de Versailles. At 3:00 p.m. we visit«Duel» at the Vingtième Théâtre, at 6:00 p.m. the varieté-cabaret «La Clique» (review follows) at the Bobin’O and at 10:30 p.m. the revue «La Vie est belle» at the Belle Epoque. The last one is a private occasion, therefore no report (I think it’s also better for it). In between we enjoy a great lasagne at an Italian restaurant. The highlight of the day that’s «La Clique» – and not only why we are seated in the VIP lounge. To our left and right the face-lifted high society of an unestimable age. However, «La Clique» had a huge success in London. Now we know for a good reason. But in spite of all euphoria we flopped dead tired into bed at 1:30 a.m. Bonne nuit!
► Monday, December 7, 2009
By Elmar Berger. – Time ouuuuut! :) Aside from this evening the whole day is at leisure only. In the afternoon we have a walk along the Champs-Elysées to have a hot spiced wine. The complete pomp boulevard is adorned with spanking new light chains. The «Marché de Noël» consists besides of almost 100 little, white châlets also of the «Ice Magic», a exhibition of ice sculptures in a special thermo-tent close to the Concorde square. But unfortunately there is not much atmosphere even after three «vins chauds» (hot wines) – it is draughty and uncomfortable.
The evening we pass by invitation at the «Crazy Horse», where the champagne is so dry that it sometimes seems to dust. Since September the cabaret offers already the new show«Désirs». It is the second performance on this Monday and the frequentation is nevertheless remarkable. No surprise: The «Crazy Horse» is on the up and up with its latest production and gets for the first time five stars, our highest evaluation. The evening’s only misstep: Two precocious, really embarrassing pseude-divas in the audience who are neither beautiful nor nice but think to be the cat’s whiskers.
► Tuesday, December 8, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – This morning the 45 minutes of jogging – in default of a park very lung-friendly next to the périphérique – has more a stultifying than a refreshing effect. Kilometer by kilometer dilly-dallys along in slow-motion. It seems that I will have to administer intravenously the morning coffee by the bucketful to shake a leg. «In the age of 30 it’s going downhill», said already my grandma. And why grandmothers always have to be right? The weather today is beautiful. No cloud in the sky and comparatively warm (supposed to be 15 °C). The cafés set even their outside tables. By car we drive downtown and have a walk at Montmartre,
In the evening we see «La Cage aux Folles» («The Birdcage») at the Théâtre de la Porte Saint-Martin. We could bye only two of the tickets in the last seating category. The last category, that’s the cattle class at the adventurous attic of the building. From a perceived height of 600 m our views fall down on miniature creatures in sequined dresses. One of those shall be Christian Clavier. The production is simply brillant, full of spirits and hilarious – but I would only tell you that if we also had got press tickets... ;)
► Wednesday, December 9, 2009
By Elmar Berger. – It is nothing new that many flights are possible at the circus world. But the flying Bouglione lions are nevertheless something special. When the transporter arrived before the premiere of the new programm «Festif» the employees discovered that no gate to the Cirque d’Hiver was broad enough to drive the vehicle onto the circus area. A truck-mounted crane finally hauled the trailer including the lions over the pomp fence of the façade. Without salto or pirouette. The short pleasure flight did not constitute the lions. The five Africans with German passport perform very independent and self-confident in the ring.
After the circus show we go shopping at the Carrefour next to our hotel. Tangerines, toast, tomatoes. And shoe polish for our better boots. These ones are seriously affected by the mud on the rain-flooded Champs-Elysees on monday and have to be ready again at 9:00 a.m. for«Les Folles Nuits Berbères» at the Cabaret Sauvage in the Parc de la Villette. This full agenda today is a perfect match because the uncomfortable weather invites in no case to open-air fusses.
► Thursday, December 10, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – As far as the Parisian weather was surely no great hit this time. Every day the same little routine: In the morning clear, in the afternoon the first clouds arrive slowly and in the evening it starts to drizzle. But not today! A gorgeous day lays behind us which we have used for a long walk from Palais Garnier via Place Vendôme, Louvre, along the River Seine onto the Ile de la Cité and further to the République. The late autumn sun had so much power that we could drink our espressi at the Tuileries garden without jacket while the corpulent sparrows on our backrest destroy mercilessly the caramel cookie crumbs.
During the promenade we notice not for the first time that the air seems to be not the best today. But this morning Paris’ mayor Bertrand Delanoë has just announced the order of the first 3’000 electric cars which shall be available for low-priced rent at 700 stations in town in the future. Background: In the medium term Delanoë wants to make Paris greener. And in the long term he wants to banish petrol-running cars out of the city centre. From 2011 the new «Autolib’» shall be organized similar to the succesful concept of the rental bikes «Vélib’». From those 20’000 pieces are at work already since 2007.
Anyway. On today’s thursday we have only one event visit on schedule.«Mozart – l’Opéra Rock» is presented since September at the Palais des Sports next to Porte de Versailles. It is the new musical of Dove Attia and Albert Cohen who were in cahoots with each other already for Kamel Ouali’s «Roi Soleil». For me their realisation of the theme is one of the most exciting questions of this Paris stay.
► Friday, December 11, 2009
By Elmar Berger. – This morning in an unwatched instant Jan has «played» in the perfumeries of the commercial centres «Bel Est» and Les Halles. Result is a first class odour nuisance. He smells in uncountable nuances and wouldn’t he drive currently I would hoof him out immediately. Fresh air we have at least in the afternoon. The sky is overcasted and the excursion to Saint-Germain-en-Laye is cancelled but we drive for the first time ever to Bercy Village, a shopping und gastronomy park at the old wine barrel storage depot next to the River Seine.
The next destination is the Théâtre du Châtelet. It is built in an 1a-location – like real estate brokers always use to say. Laying directly next to Ile de la Cité and Hôtel de Ville (the townhall) the bulding looks with its pompous façade onto the square of the same name. In these days the kitschy, hip musical«La Mélodie du Bonheur» resp. «The Sound of Music» is performed here. And I catch Jan red-handed while he no more understands the English texts after only one week in Paris and reads seeking help the French translation on displays to the stage’s left and right.
► Saturday, December 12, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – We got a cold shock this morning. Over night the temperatures went through the floor and reach no more than 4 °C also in the daytime. For tomorrow the meteorologists announce even snow in Paris. Actually nice, but on Monday we will have to drive back to Germany by car. That’s why icy conditions fall flat.
Our stay here in France comes slowly to an end. Unfortunately. Today is all about artits, animals, attractions once again. In the morning we are guests at the Cirque Jean Richard in Naterre and see its current show«Gitano». In the late afternoon we are at the well-known Cirque Arlette Gruss who is built up at the Pelouse de Reuilly. The production «La Cité du Cirque», by far the best circus programme of our journey, is performed today for the penultimate time. After almost three weeks the circus leaves Paris tomorrow and returns to its winter quarters for a break of four weeks. Pinder and Phénix, the competitors next to him, will stay in town until the middle of January. Than for Arlette Gruss the new tour season will already start – traditionally in Bordeaux.
► Sunday, December 13, 2009
By Elmar Berger. – It snows on our last day in Paris. Slowly our steadiness comes to an end. So many performances and their sometimes more sometimes less comfortable seating-accommodation take their toll. At noon a last shopping tour along the Grands Boulevards, in the late afternoon the crowning dinner at «Plumeau» on Montmartre. In the evening the last event: «Zorro» (review follows).
Since November the Stage Entertainment France competes its own «Lion King» (runs in the meantime successfully in the third season; s.review archives) with this new musical. On music of the Gipsy Kings «Zorro» brandishes his epee at the Folies Bergère. Who still wants to see this old famous stage has probably to hurry up. Deep cracks in the base and risky, horizontally raked stairs are signs of the building’s bad conditons.
► Monday, December 14, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – Today we drive back to Germany; one and a half exciting weeks lie behind us. With eleven days at a strech this is our longest stay in Paris so far. The weather? Altogether good, it could have been much, much worse in December. The variety of events makes Paris even during the pre-Christmas period a very worth destination. When we arrive home in Cuxhaven this evening we will have driven more than 2’000 km within the scope of this journey.
See you next time!
To the entries of the year
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2005
► Saturday, October 22, 2005
By W.B. – Actually we started already yesterday evening, on Friday, at 11:30 p.m. in Cuxhaven: The route to Cologne – about 450 km – is almost a single site. From Bremen we'll drive in «column»: Elmar Berger will join us with his girlfriend. At the main station of the cathedral city the Thalys will expect us at 7:16 a.m. We'll arrive in Paris less minutes past eleven. The last stay in the «city of lights» dates back a long time for me; it was 13 months ago. But yet we haven't gain our end: In the Thalys we enjoy first of all the service of the first class. We're invited. We get fresh coffee, breakfast, snacks.
Arrived in Paris, our first way after the hotel check-in takes us to the Tour Montparnasse – inventory from above, so to speak, if still everything is on its place. Eiffel Tower, Sacré-Cœur, Notre-Dame (really without scaffolding?). In the next days we've to discover new things for you, dear users. But be sure that we will of course not forget the savoir-vivre besides the investigations...
► Sunday, October 23, 2005
By Elmar Berger. – After the temporary drizzle of yesterday, it finally brightens up today morning – the sun, really not a guest for granted during the Parisian october! Accordingly it's time for a visit of the Îles de la Cité and Saint-Louis. We ascertain that «Berthillon» really offers the best ice cream in town. The precious taste intensity of strawberry, choco & co. is unbelievable. In the afternoon we are making tracks to the biggest cemetery of the city, the Père-Lachaise. It may seems macabre, when curios locals and tourists go for a walk between the graves. But the deads of the Père-Lachaise were – today one would call them – «VIPs» for who the point has been to see and to be seen already during their life times. Obviously they prefer to take part in the further living instead of resting in peace.
The evening is reserved for the obligatory flying visit of the Sacré-Cœur, which let me go euphocially into raptures also at the tenth Paris stay. The view from here above is overwhelming (even when the floodlights of the sights were switched off at midnight). ► Monday, October 24, 2005
By W.B. – At 2:00 p.m. «En Piste!» («Ring free!») is said at the circus Bouglione. The last one of the proud winter circuses of Paris is located in the 110, rue Amelot. The new programme is called
«Audace» and promises 180 minutes of best entertainment. Since 1999 the old, new tradition of artists, animals, attractions exists here finally again after a 20 years lasting intermission. Following a short press small-talk with Guillaume Brasseur, the show manager, and a big compliment for the well-done production.
► Tuesday, October 25, 2005
By Jan Dreyßig. – By Jan Dreyßig. – In the morning we go to climb the Eiffel Tower – for me it's by the way the first time for five years. Naturally the steel construction is omnipresent in Paris, but it didn't count to the visit programms of passed stays. The weather today is wonderful and, how we experience a little bit shocked, also many further people are on the mars field. Frankly speaking too many. Since 9:30 a.m. we stand in the visitors' queue and we can't still see the end of it. At 10:30 a.m. we reach the first floor – and the next queue. It takes already again an hour before we have a breath-taking, hurried view at Paris from the top. Hurried because we have to go down fastly in the meantime to the next date. We'll see how much hours this way will take...
In the evening we are guests of the Bastille opera.
«La Bohème» is on schedule for today. We see a fantastic production with magnificent singers, musicians and impressive stage scenes. At the finale the moved lady group in the tier behind me shed tears. Could there be a nicer compliment to the choreographers and actors?
► Wednesdy, October 26, 2005
By Elmar Berger. – Short flying visit of the Louvre. Among others departements the Italy wing was rebuilt already a longer time ago and we don't want to miss the exhibition this time. The photo-taking swarm from the Far-East arouses our interest: We are under the impression that whole Japan looks for the Mona Lisa! Anytime we stop irritated showing consideration for the ladies and gentlemen on the shutter release. Probably we are in the meantime true celebreties in Asia in regards to the number of photos on which we (or parts of our bodies) are portrayed...
Yesterday evening we were fascinated by the Bastille opera, but this evening we are frustrated by
«Caligula» at the Palais Garnier. It's not easy to write a slating. Each spectator can foresee how much blood and soul is involved in such a representation. We foresee it, too – but nevertheless: What we see here and today in the National Opera is disappointing. Our faces and the faces of many fellow sufferers speak volumes, even though the ballet technics were performed perfectly. It's the production that is a complete flop from our point of view.
► Thursday, October 27, 2005
By W.B. – Already at 9:30 a.m. we stand in the visitors' queue of the Musée Grévin, whose entrance rates are acceptable on the contrary to its in London and New York. The expositions here change regularly – finally also a wax figure of Louis de Funès is part of it. A new figure anno 2004, the old one has been seen only by the storemen for years.
Jan Dreyßig has visited the Parisian zoo in the Vincennes forest for the last time in 1999. Eagerly I'm waiting for the announced panda bear immediately behind the main entrance, the big wild animal department and the elephants. But there's nothing to see except monkeys, gazelles, giraffes and all sorts of small creatures; the empty enclosures are totally dilapidated. In the complete area the weeds sprout in such an unconcealed way that we scent a «scandal» because of the normal ticket prices which are not reduced. Bankruptcy? Shut-down? Actually there is outside in front of the entrance a sign with a notice in regards to the basical renovation of the zoo. – You know, who can read has a clear advantage.
Our last Parisian evening we spend at the Opéra Comique (
«La Veuve Joyeuse») – in the contrary to the national operas we are guests here for the very first time and at the same time really enthusiastic how amazing operettas can be.
► Friday, October 28, 2005
By Jan Dreyßig. – At lunchtime we have to say good-bye to Paris. For the time being a last walk across the Île de la Cité, a last visit at the Galeries Lafayette, a last trip with the métro, which brought us in the days passed away so reliably to all destinations. Than we go to the Gare du Nord. Our Thalys starts approximately at 4:00 p.m. The journey ends at the Mariott Hotel Am Seestern in Düsseldorf by that we're so enthusiastic that we'll return with pleasure also in the future for a stopover. Thanks for the overwhelming service! And the next Paris trip is already dated, too...
2006
► Friday, July 21, 2006
By Jan Dreyßig. – At 6:00 a.m. on the roof-deck of the Hamburg Airport it becomes apparent that this friday will surely not be one of the summer’s coolest ones. But who had thought that the thermometer would really climb onto 38° C in the afternoon in Paris?! Tropical circumstances obtain under the spotless blue sky. On the «Paris Plage» African rhythm sounds between pool and palms. But there are not so many Parisians who cavort on the reclaimed Seine beach. Primarily German tourists enjoy the sun. I hope that they don’t reserve «their» deck chairs also here with towels before the breakfast...
Many institutions prepared themselves in due for the weather. Under the Eiffel Tower big air conditioners are installed above the visitors queues and in the cafés ventilators whirl cooled air across the guests.
► Saturday, July 22, 2006
By Jan Dreyßig. – Today 34° C. Slowly the merciless heat affects our mind, too. In the meantime we deify shower and shady trees like sanctuaries of first rate. For the air-conditioned salerooms I am deeply indebted to the Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, C&A and H&M on the boulevard Haussmann. I love you! In the evening a dinner at the Greek quarter next to Saint-Michel. The roasted mushrooms are cold – in this weather the cook understands obviously the worries of his guests and prefers to do without unneeded heat sources...
► Sunday, July 23, 2006
By Jan Dreyßig. – Today 33° C. The last stage of the 93rd Tour de France runs already, when I try to struggle through to the press centre on the Champs-Élysées at 2:00 p.m. But where is it? Collective shrugging of the first, second, third, fourth policemen. And the ninth has also still no idea. Anyway he doesn’t send me to ask a further colleague but to the official tour information desk, 1’500 m in direction to the Triumphal Arch. Great – but there they can’t help me, too. Pleasantly one refers me to the policemen beneath at the Concorde, they should really be able to answer my question.
To shorten the story: A gendarme in front of the Élysées Palace (yes, that’s in the meantime exactly the other direction again) finds finally the information in his hand-out. According to this I have to change the street side. BUT: Unfortunately the avenue itself is blocked out and the next two métro stations in both directions are closed for security reasons. The Tour de France as my personal Odyssée des Champs-Élysées.
At 4:30 p.m. I almost reach my target, I can already see the trailer for the press. But I haven’t reckoned on the young lady at the VIP entrance who tells me that she isn’t authorised to let me (outwardly quite calm, inwardly close to explosion) pass through. Someone of the press office has to pick me up here. But unfortunately she hasn’t a phone number. Me not, too. And her supervisor? «No!!!» (Sorry for the question!). At 5:00 p.m. the first racers arrive the Champs-Élysées, the splendour boulvard seethes because of the heat. I seethe, too, but for other reasons. I have the feeling that I have walked today as much as the teams have driven… At 7:00 p.m. I jump at the media office (now freed of barricades) and ask the gentlemen behind the counter, if he maybe has still a press kit for me with general datas about the tour. «Yes, but now? AFTER the race?» Little joker, aren’t you?
► Monday, July 24, 2006
By Jan Dreyßig. – Today 35° C. From the benches around the Triumphal Arch one has an absolutely beautiful view on the traffic chaos on the place Charles de Gaulle. The French navigate their cars higgledy-piggledy into directions I have never heard of before. Who listens attentively will hear the marvelous whistles of the unflinching traffic policemen right in the heard of the gigantic turmoil out of trucks, cars, mopeds and buses. They pipe and gesticulate effusively and conduct one of the most spectacular motorcar concerts on Earth. Supply traffic, building sites or frivolous tourists increase the degree of difficulty. Not Napoléon’s army, no, the ladies and gentlemen of the «Circulation» are the real heros of the Étoile for me!
In the evening we drive to the Charles de Gaulle airport. Air France shall bring us back to Hamburg from their new terminal in Roissy. The emphasis is placed on «shall». Unfortunately the personal behind the desks is hopelessly overstrained by their modern technology. The luggage registration is late for 60 minutes, the boarding for 25 minutes. As the kamikaze bus driver turns us finally across the manoeuvring area to the A320, the cockpit windows of our bird were swiftly masked with silvery adhesive tapes. Shall it protect the pilots from the draught or shall it keep the airplane together? One doesn’t know why. And one doesn’t want to know why. At 7:28 p.m. AF 2510 takes off – with a delay of 53 minutes. Anyhow the catering is opulent: For dinner are served exactly 150 ml cola and 20 g cheese cracker. – Lufthansa, we’re coming!
► Saturday, November 25, 2006
Von Jan Dreyßig. – It’s lucky that the track section which the DB night train Hamburg-Paris drives on French territory is absolved anyway during the shower the breakfast time. The rails here don’t have the straightness like in Germany. I’m sure, one could have covered the way from the Belgian boarder also on a horseback – probably with the almost same sleeping comfort.
Just arrived at the Gare du Nord – the new designed forecourt finally takes shapes – we hurry to our hotel. Already at 5:00 p.m. the performance of the
Arlette Gruss circus will begin. And at 8:45 p.m. I’ll have a date under the big top of the Pinder-Jean Richard circus. Both are built up on the Pelouse de Reuilly in the south-east of the city. Christmas time is circus time in Paris. Eleven enterprices play here simultaneously in November/December. Two of the best ones I will see today.
► Sunday, November 26, 2006
By W.B. – As usually on Sunday mornings the streets are deserted (probably entire Paris cures its hangover). The spring-like november temperatures (?!) reach a level around 18°C. Why there are gloves, scarfs and coats in our luggage at all? But also the Parisians not seem to trust in the climatic peace: Shoes without socks and above poloshirts BUT as tribute to the winter that comes nevertheless a big cotton scarf around the stomach.
Jean Reno, french Hollywood star (another one of these paradoxons!) plays at the Édouard VII in
«Les Grandes Occasions». A special performance and opportunity we don’t want to miss. The representations are sold out for weeks and a prolongation isn’t possible. In the evening we’re guests at the Opéra Comique, currently my favourite stage in Paris. After six years director Jerôme Savary says good-bye with «À la recherche de Joséphine». It will be difficult for his successor; the expectations are high. Maybe also too high.
► Monday, November 27, 2006
By Jan Dreyßig. – The RATP seems to have started a new fragrance attack in the métro. Yesterday the underground was still governed by the musty smell. Today infatuating orange and strawberry aromas wafts through the corridors. All very well. But there are stations (you know already, those of the M12 northern from the Gare du Nord) which doom even the highestly concentrated perfumes to failure: In any case we can just warn you to use a connection of peach and urine as room deodorant! Contrary to this, the permanently increasing number of homeless persons seems to become a true problem. They besiege every grated
intake air shaft in the pavements to stop freezing during the night. The clochards are the other side of the Parisian extravagancy world. Homeless are especially East-European immigrants whose integration will not succeed.
We experience the contrast programme: Champagne, charme and charivari at the big Lido.
«Bonheur» the fantastic programme is called. But a bad conscience remains after the impressions of this afternoon.
► Tuesday, November 28, 2006
By W.B. – Originally it was planned already for a long time to visit the musical «Cabaret» at the Folies Bergère this evening. But one has forgotten to reserve our press tickets and the performances are completely sold ou until January. The invitation is changed for February and we have the opportunity to see
«Le Roi Soleil». I have to say that it is one of the best musicals I’ve ever seen. In the meantime the production plays already the second season at the Palais des Sports and the ticket demands will simply not drop off. Quite right.
► Wednesday, November 29, 2006
By Jan Dreyßig. – Due to more than a dozen of «Roi Soleil» earcatchers the night was a little bit unquiet. But not only because of them: This morning at 1:00 a.m. I missed the last metro. A cab in the near? Far from it! Forced march from the République to the North station! In only one hour, five minutes and 43 seconds! Record-breaking! Unfortunately noone was interested in my athletic and brilliant achievement: The enthousiastic crowds at the arrival turn out small. But I’m sure that the day time was the only reason for this disappointing popularity!
In the afternoon we have the chance to see the latest programme
«Artistes» at the Cirque d'Hiver. Clown Fumagalli participates; I know him already from his days at the German Roncalli circus. The building of the 19th century is wraped up with scaffoldings. Obviously he gets finally also at the outside the make-up which has realized already inside a beautiful atmosphere. The evening belongs to the classic music: The Wiener Philharmoniker (the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra) at the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées. By the way I experience an episode of French hospitality: A bickering usherette (you know surely, that everyone recognizes usherettes in Paris by there always open hand!) abuses an irritated visitor from Austria. And this poor tourist has IN FACT forgotten the tip! Quel grand malheur! The Austrian can be happy that the lady had no scaffold available…
► Thursday, November 30, 2006
By W.B. – The free day in Paris! I spend it with squeezing myself through the shopping people(s!) in the Grands Magasins: Lafayette and Printemps are bursting with overcrowding (the Samaritaine is still closed because of its renovation). During a short Cityrama sightseeing tour I let pass the stay in review and ask myself, why of all people the Parisians have such an intensive tendency towards American christmas kitsch: The lighter, more colourful and louder the better! For the last two hours we come together briefly in our favourite café to arrange the coming dates for February. In THIS way a Paris stay has to end – with the plannings fort the next one...
2007
► Wednesday, February 21, 2007
By Barbara Walther. – Some minutes after nine a.m. and we stand on platform 8 at the Gare du Nord – the night train of the Deutschen Bahn arrived exactly on schedule. For time reasons W.B. and Jan Dreyßig flew today morning with Air France from Bremen but now they wait for us already in the hotel. A fast café crème «à emporter». A cab will bring us (and the heavy luggage!) to the Résidence du Pré where we discuss together the last details for the coming days in Paris.
Five hours later, at 2:00 p.m., we have a date at the other end of the city: In the south-west. Over there in the Boulogne forest the French national circus of Alexis Gruss is installed. Also
«Allegro Sportissimo», the title of the programme 2007, concentrates on various horse acts.
► Thursday, February 22, 2007
By Jan Dreyßig. – The decision to enjoy the all-you-can-eat buffet of an American pizza chain has a little bit of masochism. We know that we eat really ALWAYS too much, but, you know, not everyone learns something out of his mistakes. And so we are sitting today again wailingly and plaintively in the restaurant and try to stand up without exploding. No matter what happens: The Swedish around the table behind us are as intelligent as we have been and a problem shared is a problem halved!
Our weight seems to have reached the glorious level of a 7.5 ton lorry when we leave the hotel to visit
«Cabaret» at 7:30 p.m. at the Folies Bergère. With «Cabaret» the Parisians have discovered their faible for international musicals. Finally. The current production has been prolonged for months already for the third time and in November the next production will have its premiere at the Théâtre Mogador: «Le Roi Lion», «The Lion King». Some years ago it has been unthinkable that the U.S. company Disney produces in France. But the processing via the French quasi-subsidiary Stage Entertainment France becalms obviously also the most convinced patriot.
The end of the show, 11:00 p.m., totally emaciated onto subjective 3.5 t, hungry! Where was this sensational crêperie close to the Folies???
► Friday, February 23, 2007
By Claus Dreyßig. – A simple question, but no answer: Why do the French have still unisex toilets? Not only bars and pubs are very much interested in the uni-lav, no, even the Galeries Lafayette. Bad times for prudish foreigners. Between parking cars a similar serious problem lies in wait for thoughtless passer-bys: Dog poohs or «doggy landmines», as they are called usually. The majority of the Parisian dog population consists of specimens which are hardly taller than rats. It is connected to the small (because very expensive) apartements. There is simply not enough space for calf sizes. In the evening mostly female Parisians move their barking «goldhamsters» on short leads across the pavement. Or they carry them. One should be a big city pooch...
Jan and I drive this afternoon to a business date to Mantes-la-Ville. Mantes is an idyllic, typical French town in the west of Paris. The evening we pass in a restaurant close to the Place du Tertre on the top of the Montmartre hill. A 8:30 p.m. «Les Arts Sauts» show us their production
«Ola Kala» directly beside the Alexis Gruss circus.
►
Saturday, February 24, 2007
By W.B. – «Aux Champs-Élysées / Au soleil, sous la pluie / À midi ou à minuit / Il y a tout ce que vous voulez / Aux Champs-Élysées» – these words were sung in one of the most popular chansons about the Parisian glamour boulevard. And each walk between Étoile and Concorde confirms the lyrics: Really everything can be discovered on the Champs-Élysées. But don't forget – it's not so interesting to see, it is more important to be seen! Some metres before the Concorde the U.S. embassy on the left side. Since September 11th, 2001, it is supposed to be the best guarded building in France.
Planned for the afternoon was originally a visit of the Théâtre Marigny. Alain Delon plays here since the end of January. But the performance is cancelled. We will try to catch it up during our next stay. In the evening we see (and hear) Nelly Furtado within the scope of her
«Get Loose» tour at the sold out and famous Olympia of Bruno Coquatrix.
► Sunday, February 25, 2007
By W.B. – Today on Sunday the pavements are much emptier than in the week. We miss the legions of smokers who are forced consume their cigarettes open-air during the lunch break. During the peak hours the addicts swash like sea waves out of the entrance doors and befog the complete environment densely. At 4:00 p.m. (as regular visitor of Paris-Tourist.com you surely suspect it) a reunion with the Opéra Comique. Jacques Offenbach's
«La Périchole» is performed.
In the evening, exactly at 8:30 p.m., the Air France brings us back to Germany from the Aéroport Roissy-Charles de Gaulle. I'm really enthusiastic because it's quite stormy in the French capital. The takeoff is accordingly turbulent. It's nice that Europe grows obviously together more and more: The 1'000 km route Paris-Bremen is flyed by Air France RÉGIONAL. So well!
► Wednesday, 9, through Sunday, May 13, 2007
By Jan Dreyßig. – All fans of our travel diary we have unfortunately to avow that there will be no entries for this Paris stay for time reasons. SORRY! But here a list of the new reviews and articles (the texts follow soon):
1) Cirque du Soleil with
«Alegría»,2) Marc Jolivet in
«Comic Symphonic»,3)
«Paradis d'Amour» at the Paradis Latin,4) Alain Delon in
«Sur la Route de Madison»,5) By car across the Paris metropolis region,
6) «Canauxrama»:
«On board along the old ways of the original Paris»
2008
► Thursday, June 5, 2008
By Elmar Berger. – Jan and I fly today from Cologne and Bremen to Paris – «editorial meeting», you know ;)! For the first time since 2005 we are together in France’s capital. And that’s why the local nightlife will play surely a central part during our stay.
After ten years we get in fact unfaithful to our long-time accommodation and reside for the first time at the comfortable Suitehotel Porte de Montreuil. This hotel of the Accor group is located at the périphérique – we will see in how far the larger distance to Paris downtown will be a future reason to return into the city centre. In any case an advantage is the completely air-conditioned apartment which is equipped with refrigerator, microwave, kettle. At the moment the weather is absolutely nice but who knows the development of the summer temperatures until Sunday.
At the evening we see
«Forever Crazy», the latest revue of the Crazy Horse. Before the premiere last late summer the whole cabaret was renovated. A bottle of champagne is served – what a marvellous beginning. And the continuation follows after the show in the glamorous «Buddha Bar» on the Champs-Elysées. Open end included, of course.
► Friday, Juni 6, 2008
By Elmar Berger. – On Friday we make an excursion to Chantilly-Gouvieux and Senlis, two little suburbs in the North-Eastern outskirts of Paris. The beautiful landscape corresponds really to every French cliché: Lopsidedly stone houses, bumpy streets, a lot of green, a noble castle and in fact French with baguette under their arm! But there is one disadvantage: Senlis is difficult to reach by public transport. Accordingly it will appear in one of our «Car routes across the metropolis region of Paris». At least we both look forward to this circumstance – it causes our ride by our super-comfortable, rented Chrysler across the sun-pervaded Île de France. A true dream!
At 9:15 p.m. we enter the Bobin’O, the youngest cabaret of Paris. (Unfortunately a little bit late because the gentlemen are still not able to appreciate the real distance and schedules from their new hotel; note of the editorial staff) The hall is almost overcrowded with modern light machines up to the ceiling. The clou: After the show the auditorium changes into a club bar where the guests can dance into the morning. Tonight unfortunately noone uses this offer. But usually the visitors of Parisian cabarets get also immediately complimented to go after the show because the personal wants to prepare everything for the next performance.
► Saturday, June 7, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – We have some dates in several hotels and for lunch we will have buffet at «Pizza-Hut». Our regular users know already from the earlier diary entries how many worries too much good pizza can cause. And this time, too, I can confirm you: Still nothing learned and, of course, eaten too much again. Maybe, maybe next time – but we should remain realistic: Between dozens of fresh, tasty margheritas, funghis, tonnos & Co. this rationality would be extremely improbable.
Later in the afternoon we are invited to
«Fame», the masterpiece which caused the musical euphoria in Europe at the beginning of the 80s. The Théâtre Comédia has invested into a great production – but according to reports the ticket sale is supposed to run also excellent. The evening is dedicated to Montmartre. In the dawn we sit in a street restaurant next to old, little houses and taste the great haute cuisine. The night will be short – Elmar wants to visit the «Scala», a long-established discotheque face à face to the Louvre. Thank God that the metro drives longer and the night buses more regular in the meantime.
► Sunday, June 8, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – (Yes, I’m still alive after the party!) Our stay is finished unusually fast – it has been the shortest travel for a long time. We have had much luck in regards to the weather – much sunshine and temperatures around 20° C. Quite right! We still have a walk across the weekend market across from our hotel. It swarms with brand products and self-burned dvds – the gendarmerie has obviously given up the fight against the plagiarism trade and play cards in the team bus.
By Air France we will start back to Germany in the late afternoon. At the airport the bus driver does not find the airplane and (as rumour has it) the pilot cruises on the wrong runway. I hope he will find at least the airstrip in Bremen.
► Friday, August 1, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – Finally back in Paris! But – the last time is just eight weeks ago and I should not dramatise this way... In June the Suitehotel has convinced us. That’s why we are driving again from Charles de Gaulle to the Porte de Montreuil and not into the ninth arrondissement which we know from passed stays.
For me as a big Louis de Funès fan today is a very special day. Even if Louis has passed away a long time ago – in 2008 he is dead for exactly 25 years – it is always a huge pleasure for me to can see one of his film partners of those days on stage. In 2004 I saw Michel Galabru alias adjutant Jérôme Gerber at the Théâtre Saint-Georges (please find the report the review archives). Today I am going to see a performance of Louis’ film wife Josépha Cruchot who is called Claude Gensac in real life and plays currently «La Perruche et le Poulet» at the Théâtre Déjazet. In the meantime the lady is a little north of eighty and the movements may no more be as easy as some years ago – her distinctive smile and her facial expression remained nevertheless the same. I would have wished her a nicer ambiance – for Parisian relations the Déjazet is a scruffy dump.
► Saturday, August 2, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – In my hometown Cuxhaven has opened a Sealife Centre some months ago. That is why we focus today on the Sealife in Paris. By our rental car we drived this morning to Marne-la-Vallée, in the direct neighbourhood of Disneyland. Here the big aquarium is integrated in a huge shopping mall in Provençal style, the «Val d’Europe». On site we order roasted duck at the «Dragon d’Europe». And because we badger the restaurant owner a little bit with his German pronounciation he demands us to eat with sticks. Great! I can tell you he has had his fun!
In the afternoon we are invited to the Théâtre Mogador. Audience with the lion king, the «Roi Lion» (review available soon). At home in Germany I would no more visit a musical because the Germany lyrics translations used to sound really terrible. But here in Paris we brim over with enthusiasm for the performance. Five Paris-Tourist.com stars for a truly breathtaking production – for the first time ever I would like to enlarge our evaluation system about a sixth one.
After the dinner we drive to the west, to Versailles. In these days the old water games of the world-famous castle run only on a few days of the year. Today they will be supported also by classic music and colourful lights. The top attraction of the
«Grandes Eaux Nocturnes» will be the spectacular fireworks. The best view you have from the stairs up to the castle’s back. The atmosphere around the legendary atmosphere is quite unique.
► Sunday, August 3, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – Although we have a navigation system on board we lost completely our way in Paris downtown. In the meantime there can be no more a street in the city which I have not yet absolved at our Peugeot’s wheel. Thank God that there are no obligations today! At least we experience that Paris celebrates the current presidentship of the European Union. The photo to the left shows that even the Eiffel Tower has got a blue dress and a star necklace à l’Europe.
► Monday, August 4, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – Today is departure day. After the breakfast we pack our bags and hit the road back to the Charles de Gaulle airport. En-route we make a stop at one of the quite big tourist attractions of Paris: Ikea, the Swedish furniture shop! The restaurant cooks express their deeply felt lack of understanding with a quizzical view when we order the unavoidable Köttbullar. But in France they are called «boulettes de viande suédoise», Swedish meat balls. At least «Billy» remains Billy also in Paris.
► Wednesday, December 3, 2008
By Elmar Berger. – When a Paris trip gets heralded in a cocktail bar like yesterday evening, it is supposed to be a high proof journey. The more so when the party continues far into the night at the night train’s cabins. (Sorry, neighbours!) None the less we arrive next morning safely at the Gare du Nord. By car we drive via Périphérique to our hotel. At a snail’s pace, of course, because we get stuck between dozens of building sites in the rush-hour traffic. You know, tradition is tradition.
Just arrived in Montreuil we hurry up to get the metro to the Cirque d’Hiver who presents
«Etoiles» at 2:00 p.m. Since the reopening of the circus building, the Bouglione family produces its tenth show this year. And the programme is very strong. Subsequently we hit the road to the new Charles Aznavour musical «Je m’voyais déjà». For the first time we are guests at the Théâtre du Gymnase. The inside architecture is impressive. In the meantime the old halls with their red velvet and rich Golden décor are a true epitome of Paris for us. Where else you find so many beautiful, classical stages like here?
► Thursday, December 4, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – It’s quite cold on Thursday, too. We are driven to the Val d’Europe to do shopping this time unhurriedly. (Yes, also men enjoy it as long as the women don’t take part!) We bury the «hatchet» ;) with the chef waiter of the Chinese restaurant and are allowed to eat with fork and knife in return. From 1:00 p.m. we are on our way back to Paris again.
Two hours later the Arlette Gruss circus expects us with its show
«Mirages». In Paris the white big top has been built up for the last time. From January the enterprise is going to travel with a brand new tent. After a dove hit yesterday the bull’s eye (= me!) with its munitions, I hit in return a dog pooh this morning. And during the show my «luck» goes on. Obviously an elephant has just waited to stand right in front of me to take a biobreak. Inauspiciously the pachyderm turns around in waltz time – the centrifugal forces complicate the flight path’s calculation. Thank God – the huge load lands 50 cm away from my feet. – Actually I still have to win at the lottery this week.
► Friday, December 5, 2008
By Elmar Berger. – This morning we visit the Parisian boat expo «Nautic» on the fairground Porte de Versailles. The yachts look extremely great – but unfortunately they are unaffordable, too. Anyway, we have our rented Passat CC at the car park next door. I only say leather seats and tinted windows. Also quite nice! :) The trip to the little suburb Chatou gets a farce. We would like to have a walk along the Seine riverside and eat something at a brasserie on site. But the after-work traffic clutches us practically. For the little distance of 19 km we need more than 80 minutes – that corresponds to an overwhelming average speed of 14 km/h.
Finally arrived at Chatou, there’s time only for some sandwiches from the supermarket. The
Pinder circus invited us to the evening performance. Great – we are in the West of Paris, Pinder is built up in the East. Against our own expectations we really make it in time – but don’t ask me how…
► Saturday, December 6, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – On Saint Nicholas Day we start where we stopped yesterday. For the third and last time we drive to the Pelouse de Reuilly which we find by now smoothly also without navigation system. After Arlette Gruss on Thursday and Pinder yesterday we have the third circus on the programme today: Phénix with its show
«Extra – les Etoiles des Cirques du Monde». Cathérine Legrand, the charming press attachée, makes the spontaneous visit possible – thanks a lot for the support once again. Unfortunately we have to leave the big top already during the final; we have to arrive in time at the Disney Village in Chessy.
«The year is 2008 A.C. Gaul is entirely occupied by the French. Well not entirely! One small village of indomitable Americans still holds out against the invaders.» – No, don’t worry, the differences in and around Disneyland are not that kind grossly. But however it’s obviously that two (culture) dimensions collide here a little bit. Since 1992 the dinner show
«Buffalo Bill’s Wild West» runs at the Disney Village. Instead of delicate haute-cuisine the adventuresome audience eats chilli con carne, chicken, spare rips and potatoes from metal dishes. Proper style it has to be!
► Sunday, December 7, 2008
By Elmar Berger. – This morning work is to be expected. We plan future projects in Paris and recompense ourselves with tickets for «Elle t’attend» at the Théâtre de la Madeleine. Why this shall basically be a recompense? Well, supermodel Laetitia Casta plays the star role. Originally the piece should be played until 12/31 but the dernière is already next Sunday. The staging really convinces and the whole ensemble performs a great service in a simple but effective stage design.
Let’s face it: This morning we have overslept and now we have to pay the price. Instead of using the metro we take the car to drive downtown. That’s much faster on Sunday mornings with less traffic. But now in the afternoon, on the way from the Place de la Madeleine to the Théâtre Comédia, the car is a millstone around our neck. The car park charge reaches a horrendous amount – that’s why we want to change. It’s a distance of 2’000 m only but the boulevard des Italiens is overcrowded. Just in time we reach the Comédia on abstruse loop ways to see «Grease» (review follows soon). It’s already the last event of our current Paris trip. Sad.
► Monday, December 8, 2008
By Jan Dreyßig. – Always the same on departure days: Already prepared for leaving the city, but still a whole day before the return journey really begins – our night train starts at 9:00 p.m. At Carrefour we stock up on provisions and drive occasionally to Sucy-en-Brie. Lunch we have – in the meantime traditionally – at Ikea. The store in Villiers-sur-Marne is not as nice as the Northern one in Roissy. But a Mediterranean shopping mall is currently under construction in the neighbourhood. During our next stay we will check it for you…
2009
► Friday, March 6, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – The journey to Paris doesn’t turn out the way we expected. At the Belgian Leuven the Thalys drops out and a replacement train, a French TGV, is available not before Brussels. In-between we use a Belgian InterCity (IC). On board the Thalys we had WiFi but no power socket. Now the TGV offers electricity but no internet. Crazy world – the IC however had nothing of both.
At least the weather gets better kilometer by kilometer. We left Cologne in a winter drizzle. The Gare du Nord we reach at 3:00 a.m. and are surprised by spring-like 14 °C and clearest sunshine. The one hour delay and further lags put our crammed schedule in a flurry. Unfortunately the free evening does not recompense us, too. As guests of the «Hippopotamus» steakhouse in Saint-Malgré (by the way for the first and last time ever) we meet two overpriced and by tendons and cartilages furrowed cutlets the chef de cuisine has tried to disguise as steaks. Sit down – failed!
Saturday, March 7, 2009
Von Jan Dreyßig. – No idea when I have seen Paris the last time in such a brillant weather. The dusk (observable directly from the hotel room) makes amends for the much stress of yesterday. While we still yearn for spring in North-Germany, it reached the heart of France some weeks ago. Although the trees are still naked, the Parisians have already put their winter clothing in mothballs.
Our first drive this morning leads us to the Parisian East. In time at 3:00 a.m. we arrive at the Palais des Sports in the West. After «Le Roi Soleil» (s.
review archives) also Kamel Ouali’s second musical, «Cléopâtre», celebrated right here big successes. Of course, the afternoon performance is completely sold out for weeks. Some minutes later we know why: The production has a quality that really noone should wonder about its popularity. In the evening we visit the «American Dream», a kitschy, trendy US scene bar close to Palais Garnier. The style mix of the piano man is dispiteous – € 12,00 for a 0.5 l beer, too. So, no chance to anaesthetise the ears. Thanks a bomb, guys!
Sunday, March 8, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – The sunday is a little bit hectic. The – in the truest sense of the word – «bonbon» of the day we get certainly right now at the Porte de Versailles. The «Intersuc» is the leading tradeshow of French bakers, confectioners and ice-cream sellers. A unique calory puddle waits for the visitors who noshes through a complete exhibition hall of gateau and cake samples, whole landscapes of chocolate candies and huge tubs of ice cream. I think lunch will be canceled today... Later we visit quickly the exposition «Our Body – à corps ouvert». It is a Chinese pendant to the contended «Körperwelten» («body worlds») of the also not less contended German Gunther von Hagen. But «Our Body – à corps ouvert» has not the dimension and quality to hold a candle to it.
Since the end of January and through the end of March a surprisingly permissive adaption of the musical
«Hair» runs at the Théâtre le Trianon, not far away from the Pigalle. Big grinning we see many children in the audience – we are afraid that mummies and daddies will be faced with a lot of inconvenient questions. The musical itself benefits from the happy staff which radiates much power.
After «Hair» we have a walk onto the Montmartre hill which is beseted by legions of tourists enjoying the nice temperatures. The evening we pass at a little, wonderful restaurant close to the Place du Tertre. On the outside terrace, of course...
Monday, March 9, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – On the last day the sun shows once again what it is able to do. But there is not yet true power in it. Nevertheless everybody luxuriates at the cafés’ outside terraces and lusts for every sunbeam.
The Thalys back to Cologne starts at five to one. A crazy clown on platform 7 pilots the passengers into the railway cars whose equipment is old. But at least the service is perfect. The staff is very kind, the meal extravagant and tasty. The four hours spin away – and not only because we travel with a speed of 300 km/h!
► Friday, December 4, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – The car ride from Bremen to Paris – today since 7:30 a.m. we try it for the first time – we have imagined as endless long. But apart from much traffic on the A1 during the rush-hour we get along and enjoy a longer stay in Cologne (excellent meals you find at Brauhaus Peter close to the Alter Markt). The motorway across Belgium is in a disastrous condition. But in France it gets finally better. In return its use costs: 13,00 Euro – still quite acceptable. The motorways around Paris are managed by the state and always free.
In the evening the twelve hours lasting journey is still troubling us. After a sandwich we decide to relax and to save ourselves for the coming days. Tomorro we will visit the first events. But the frosty, wet weather we left successfully at home. In Paris the night sky is clear at comfortable 8 °C.
► Saturday, December 5, 2009
By Elmar Berger. – Just six months ago I was the last time in Paris as a private person. For Jan it is the 21st stay in town. That’s why for the both of us this coming back is a little bit like coming home, too.
This morning the car is left at the hotel; we prefer the métro. The whole city is overcrowded by hectic christmas shoppers and today, on the second Saturday in Advent, like hell we will make a parking lot expedition through the subterranean garages downtown. This afternoon the Théâtre Silvia Monfort provides
«Slava’s Snowshow» from Russia. It is a big pleasure to see children as well as adults playing around with white scraps of paper. Welcome to the Waldorf kindergarten. And at the end of the show we have inhaled so much dry fog that a joint’a effect may be surpassed by far. PEACE!
Never before we had to rearrange our dates as often as this time to be able to see the chosen productions. Because of TV promotions and galas many representations were cancelled and have to be visited by us earlier or later than planned. And even when it is not television its a desease: The Mando Diao concert actually announced for this evening at the little Bataclan at boulevard Voltaire drops out for health reasons – like the whole South Europe tour of the Swedish. Instead of «svenska smörebröd» we enjoy «American burgers» at the Hard Rock Café next to the Grands Boulevards.
► Sunday, December 6, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – ...and believe me, you won’t know where I have found this morning the last pieces of Slava’s darned snowflakes!
We have 16 °C! Today is doubtlessly our most stressfull day in Paris; from early in the morning until late in the night it goes choop-choop. During the forenoon we are accredited at the sailing («Nautic») and swimming pool fairs («Salon de la Piscine») at the Porte de Versailles. At 3:00 p.m. we visit
«Duel» at the Vingtième Théâtre, at 6:00 p.m. the varieté-cabaret «La Clique» (review follows) at the Bobin’O and at 10:30 p.m. the revue «La Vie est belle» at the Belle Epoque. The last one is a private occasion, therefore no report (I think it’s also better for it). In between we enjoy a great lasagne at an Italian restaurant. The highlight of the day that’s «La Clique» – and not only why we are seated in the VIP lounge. To our left and right the face-lifted high society of an unestimable age. However, «La Clique» had a huge success in London. Now we know for a good reason. But in spite of all euphoria we flopped dead tired into bed at 1:30 a.m. Bonne nuit!
► Monday, December 7, 2009
By Elmar Berger. – Time ouuuuut! :) Aside from this evening the whole day is at leisure only. In the afternoon we have a walk along the Champs-Elysées to have a hot spiced wine. The complete pomp boulevard is adorned with spanking new light chains. The «Marché de Noël» consists besides of almost 100 little, white châlets also of the «Ice Magic», a exhibition of ice sculptures in a special thermo-tent close to the Concorde square. But unfortunately there is not much atmosphere even after three «vins chauds» (hot wines) – it is draughty and uncomfortable.
The evening we pass by invitation at the «Crazy Horse», where the champagne is so dry that it sometimes seems to dust. Since September the cabaret offers already the new show
«Désirs». It is the second performance on this Monday and the frequentation is nevertheless remarkable. No surprise: The «Crazy Horse» is on the up and up with its latest production and gets for the first time five stars, our highest evaluation. The evening’s only misstep: Two precocious, really embarrassing pseude-divas in the audience who are neither beautiful nor nice but think to be the cat’s whiskers.
► Tuesday, December 8, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – This morning the 45 minutes of jogging – in default of a park very lung-friendly next to the périphérique – has more a stultifying than a refreshing effect. Kilometer by kilometer dilly-dallys along in slow-motion. It seems that I will have to administer intravenously the morning coffee by the bucketful to shake a leg. «In the age of 30 it’s going downhill», said already my grandma. And why grandmothers always have to be right? The weather today is beautiful. No cloud in the sky and comparatively warm (supposed to be 15 °C). The cafés set even their outside tables. By car we drive downtown and have a walk at Montmartre,
In the evening we see «La Cage aux Folles» («The Birdcage») at the Théâtre de la Porte Saint-Martin. We could bye only two of the tickets in the last seating category. The last category, that’s the cattle class at the adventurous attic of the building. From a perceived height of 600 m our views fall down on miniature creatures in sequined dresses. One of those shall be Christian Clavier. The production is simply brillant, full of spirits and hilarious – but I would only tell you that if we also had got press tickets... ;)
► Wednesday, December 9, 2009
By Elmar Berger. – It is nothing new that many flights are possible at the circus world. But the flying Bouglione lions are nevertheless something special. When the transporter arrived before the premiere of the new programm «Festif» the employees discovered that no gate to the Cirque d’Hiver was broad enough to drive the vehicle onto the circus area. A truck-mounted crane finally hauled the trailer including the lions over the pomp fence of the façade. Without salto or pirouette. The short pleasure flight did not constitute the lions. The five Africans with German passport perform very independent and self-confident in the ring.
After the circus show we go shopping at the Carrefour next to our hotel. Tangerines, toast, tomatoes. And shoe polish for our better boots. These ones are seriously affected by the mud on the rain-flooded Champs-Elysees on monday and have to be ready again at 9:00 a.m. for
«Les Folles Nuits Berbères» at the Cabaret Sauvage in the Parc de la Villette. This full agenda today is a perfect match because the uncomfortable weather invites in no case to open-air fusses.
► Thursday, December 10, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – As far as the Parisian weather was surely no great hit this time. Every day the same little routine: In the morning clear, in the afternoon the first clouds arrive slowly and in the evening it starts to drizzle. But not today! A gorgeous day lays behind us which we have used for a long walk from Palais Garnier via Place Vendôme, Louvre, along the River Seine onto the Ile de la Cité and further to the République. The late autumn sun had so much power that we could drink our espressi at the Tuileries garden without jacket while the corpulent sparrows on our backrest destroy mercilessly the caramel cookie crumbs.
During the promenade we notice not for the first time that the air seems to be not the best today. But this morning Paris’ mayor Bertrand Delanoë has just announced the order of the first 3’000 electric cars which shall be available for low-priced rent at 700 stations in town in the future. Background: In the medium term Delanoë wants to make Paris greener. And in the long term he wants to banish petrol-running cars out of the city centre. From 2011 the new «Autolib’» shall be organized similar to the succesful concept of the rental bikes «Vélib’». From those 20’000 pieces are at work already since 2007.
Anyway. On today’s thursday we have only one event visit on schedule.
«Mozart – l’Opéra Rock» is presented since September at the Palais des Sports next to Porte de Versailles. It is the new musical of Dove Attia and Albert Cohen who were in cahoots with each other already for Kamel Ouali’s «Roi Soleil». For me their realisation of the theme is one of the most exciting questions of this Paris stay.
► Friday, December 11, 2009
By Elmar Berger. – This morning in an unwatched instant Jan has «played» in the perfumeries of the commercial centres «Bel Est» and Les Halles. Result is a first class odour nuisance. He smells in uncountable nuances and wouldn’t he drive currently I would hoof him out immediately. Fresh air we have at least in the afternoon. The sky is overcasted and the excursion to Saint-Germain-en-Laye is cancelled but we drive for the first time ever to Bercy Village, a shopping und gastronomy park at the old wine barrel storage depot next to the River Seine.
The next destination is the Théâtre du Châtelet. It is built in an 1a-location – like real estate brokers always use to say. Laying directly next to Ile de la Cité and Hôtel de Ville (the townhall) the bulding looks with its pompous façade onto the square of the same name. In these days the kitschy, hip musical
«La Mélodie du Bonheur» resp. «The Sound of Music» is performed here. And I catch Jan red-handed while he no more understands the English texts after only one week in Paris and reads seeking help the French translation on displays to the stage’s left and right.
► Saturday, December 12, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – We got a cold shock this morning. Over night the temperatures went through the floor and reach no more than 4 °C also in the daytime. For tomorrow the meteorologists announce even snow in Paris. Actually nice, but on Monday we will have to drive back to Germany by car. That’s why icy conditions fall flat.
Our stay here in France comes slowly to an end. Unfortunately. Today is all about artits, animals, attractions once again. In the morning we are guests at the Cirque Jean Richard in Naterre and see its current show
«Gitano». In the late afternoon we are at the well-known Cirque Arlette Gruss who is built up at the Pelouse de Reuilly. The production «La Cité du Cirque», by far the best circus programme of our journey, is performed today for the penultimate time. After almost three weeks the circus leaves Paris tomorrow and returns to its winter quarters for a break of four weeks. Pinder and Phénix, the competitors next to him, will stay in town until the middle of January. Than for Arlette Gruss the new tour season will already start – traditionally in Bordeaux.
► Sunday, December 13, 2009
By Elmar Berger. – It snows on our last day in Paris. Slowly our steadiness comes to an end. So many performances and their sometimes more sometimes less comfortable seating-accommodation take their toll. At noon a last shopping tour along the Grands Boulevards, in the late afternoon the crowning dinner at «Plumeau» on Montmartre. In the evening the last event: «Zorro» (review follows).
Since November the Stage Entertainment France competes its own «Lion King» (runs in the meantime successfully in the third season; s.
review archives) with this new musical. On music of the Gipsy Kings «Zorro» brandishes his epee at the Folies Bergère. Who still wants to see this old famous stage has probably to hurry up. Deep cracks in the base and risky, horizontally raked stairs are signs of the building’s bad conditons.
► Monday, December 14, 2009
By Jan Dreyßig. – Today we drive back to Germany; one and a half exciting weeks lie behind us. With eleven days at a strech this is our longest stay in Paris so far. The weather? Altogether good, it could have been much, much worse in December. The variety of events makes Paris even during the pre-Christmas period a very worth destination. When we arrive home in Cuxhaven this evening we will have driven more than 2’000 km within the scope of this journey.
See you next time!
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